How to Clean Suede Boots and Shoes Without Ruining Them
Written by Artemis Clo
Learning how to clean suede boots properly is mostly about restraint. Suede looks delicate, but it forgives a great deal as long as you go gently, use very little water and never rush the drying. Here is the calm, step-by-step method for everyday dust, rain marks, salt lines and the odd splash of gravy.
What you need to clean suede boots
You don't need a cupboard full of products. A small kit, kept in a shoebox by the back door, covers almost everything:
- A suede brush. Usually one side with soft bristles or rubber nubs, and sometimes a side with fine brass bristles for tougher marks.
- A suede eraser, or a clean white pencil rubber as a stand-in.
- Two soft, clean cloths, pale or white so no colour transfers.
- White vinegar, for salt marks.
- Cornflour or talc, for grease.
- Plain paper for stuffing the boots while they dry. Not newspaper, which can leave ink behind.
- A suede protector spray, for afterwards.
The same routine works for anything with a soft, napped finish, including suede-look ankle boots with a side zip, suede-look Western ankle boots and square-toe suede-look boots. Have a look through our boots and you'll see how many winter styles share that soft finish.
Boots worth a look
A few pieces that fit what you have just read.
Orthopaedic Suede-Look Ankle Boots with Side Zip
Suede-Look Western Ankle Boots with Pull Tabs
Square-Toe Suede-Look Boots, Contrast Toe Cap
Real suede or suede-look? Check first
Before you touch a brush, look at the care label or the inside of the tongue. Real suede is the inner side of an animal skin, brushed to give that velvety surface. Suede-look finishes are usually a microfibre or other fabric made to feel and look similar. Our guide to natural and synthetic fibres goes into the difference in more detail.
Why it matters: real suede reacts badly to water and strong cleaners, so everything you do should be as dry as possible. Many suede-look fabrics are a little more tolerant, and some can take a cloth with a drop of mild soapy water. The rule is the same for both, though: the label wins. If it says brush only, brush only.
Cleaning suede-look and microfibre
If the label on a suede-look pair allows a damp clean, keep it simple. Brush first to lift the loose dirt. Add a drop of mild, unscented liquid soap to a bowl of cool water, dip a soft cloth, wring it out until it is barely damp, and wipe in small circles. Follow with a second cloth dampened in clean water to take off any soap, then blot dry. Stuff, dry slowly, and brush the nap back up once dry. The one thing to avoid on both real and faux finishes is getting the boot wet all the way through. Water that soaks into the lining and insole takes days to leave and can mark the outside on its way out.
Whatever the finish, test any cleaning method on a small spot you won't see, such as the inside edge near the heel, and let it dry before you carry on.
How to clean suede boots: the everyday routine
This is the clean you'll do most often, and it does most of the work. Do it on dry boots only. Brushing wet suede pushes the dirt in.
- Knock off the loose dirt. Tap the soles together outside, then brush off dried mud with short, light strokes.
- Brush with the grain. Run your hand over the surface and you'll feel the nap lies one way. Brush in that direction to lift dust from the surface.
- Brush against the grain. A few light strokes the other way lift the fibres and bring back that soft, even look.
- Work the seams and welt. Use the edge of the brush, or a soft toothbrush, along the stitching and where the upper meets the sole.
- Finish with the grain so the nap lies neatly in one direction.
Dried mud
Never try to wipe off wet mud. You'll smear it into the nap and end up with a brown cloud instead of a few splashes. Let it dry completely, overnight if you can, then crumble off the worst with your fingers and brush away what is left. Any faint shadow that remains usually lifts with the eraser. If it doesn't, handle it as a water mark and use the even-dampening method further down.
Two minutes, and most boots look years younger. Make it a habit after a wet or dusty day and you'll rarely need anything more serious.
Scuffs, shiny patches and dry marks
For a scuff or a dark mark, reach for the eraser. Rub gently over the mark as you would on paper, using small back-and-forth movements. The crumbs lift the dirt with them. Brush them away and check. Repeat a few times rather than pressing harder.
Shiny or flattened patches, often on the toe or where your bag rubs against the boot, happen when the nap has been crushed. A firm brush against the grain can lift it. For stubborn flat spots, a little steam helps: hold the boot well above a steaming kettle for a few seconds, keeping your hands out of the way, then brush the area against the grain while it is barely damp. Let it dry completely before you wear it.
Pale and light-coloured suede
Cream, stone, dove grey and pale tan suede show everything, but they also respond beautifully to the eraser. Keep a clean, white rubber just for them, as a grubby one transfers its own dirt. Brush more often and more lightly, and be extra careful with vinegar and soap, which can leave a faint ring on light colours. Always test first. A protector spray is especially worth it on pale pairs, applied before the first wear.
If you have a brass-bristle brush, use it lightly and only on real suede that has been badly flattened. On suede-look finishes, stick to the softer side.
How to clean suede boots after rain
Water marks are the classic suede problem: a pale tide line where a splash dried. The fix sounds backwards, but it works because the mark comes from uneven drying.
- Dampen a clean sponge or cloth with plain cold water and wring it out well.
- Dab the whole panel evenly, from seam to seam, so the entire area is lightly and evenly damp. Don't soak it.
- Blot with a dry cloth to take off the excess.
- Stuff the boots with plain paper to hold their shape.
- Leave them to dry naturally at room temperature, away from radiators and sunny windowsills.
- Once fully dry, brush against the grain, then with it.
If you get caught in a downpour, blot the boots as soon as you're indoors rather than leaving them to drip. The faster you take the surface water off, the less likely you'll see a line. For wet-weather outfits more generally, our guide on what to wear on a rainy day has a few ideas.
Salt stains on suede
Winter pavements leave a white, crusty line along the toe and sides. Brush away as much as you can while the boots are dry. Then mix equal parts white vinegar and cold water, dip a corner of a soft cloth in it, squeeze it almost dry and dab the marks gently. Don't rub. Blot with a dry cloth, stuff with paper and dry as above, then brush.
Test the mixture on a small spot first, as some dyes don't like it. If the line is very heavy, two light rounds are better than one wet one. We cover the whole process, including smooth boots, in how to remove salt stains from boots.
Grease, oil and food splashes
Oil is the one that looks like a disaster and usually isn't, as long as you act quickly and resist the urge to scrub.
- Blot, don't rub, any fresh oil with a dry cloth or kitchen paper.
- Cover the mark generously with cornflour or talc.
- Leave it overnight. The powder draws the oil out of the fibres.
- Brush the powder off gently, then brush the nap back up.
- Repeat once if needed.
Avoid washing-up liquid on real suede; it can leave its own mark. For sticky marks, such as a drip of something sugary, let it dry, then gently ease it off with the eraser before brushing.
Chewing gum stuck to the sole or the side? Put the boot in a bag in the freezer for an hour, then the gum hardens and you can usually pick it off.
How to dry suede boots safely
This is where most suede is lost. Heat makes the nap stiff and the surface crack or shrink, and the damage doesn't come back.
- Stuff the boots firmly with plain paper. Change it once it gets damp.
- Stand them upright, in a room at normal temperature, with air moving around them.
- Keep them away from radiators, fires, heaters and hot windowsills.
- Never use a hairdryer.
- Be patient. A properly wet pair can take a full day or more.
- Brush only when they are completely dry.
If the insides got wet too, take out any removable insoles and dry them separately, flat, on a towel. Swap the paper inside the boots every few hours for the first evening; it pulls out far more moisture than a single stuffing left overnight. Two pairs that you alternate through a wet week is the kindest arrangement of all, because each pair gets a full day to dry before you put it on again.
Protecting and storing suede boots
A protector spray is the single most useful thing you can do for a new pair. Brush the boots first so the surface is clean and dry, then spray from the distance given on the can, in a well-aired room or outside. Let them dry fully before wearing. It won't make suede waterproof, but it buys you time to blot a splash before it soaks in. Reapply every few weeks in wet months.
At the end of the season, give them a full brush and let them air for a day. Stuff them with paper or use boot shapers so the shafts don't slump, and keep them in a breathable cotton bag or their box, somewhere cool and dry. Plastic traps moisture, which suede doesn't like. Our guide to how to store winter clothes covers the rest of your winter wardrobe too.
Suede shoes, loafers and trainers
Everything above applies to shoes as well as boots, with a couple of extra notes. Low shoes take more kicks around the toe and heel, so a quick brush after each wear is worth it. Inside, a little talc sprinkled overnight and tipped out in the morning keeps a slip-on fresh. Shoe trees or a twist of paper hold the shape between wears, which matters with something like pointed colour-block penny loafers that you'll wear on repeat. For rubber soles and trims, a damp cloth on the rubber only, kept well away from the nap, finishes the job. Our guide to breaking in new shoes helps if a fresh pair is still finding its shape.
Suede-look bags and accessories
The same brush, eraser and patience work on soft-finish bags. Empty the bag, stuff it lightly with paper so the surface is taut, and brush in small sections. For smooth finishes such as a leather-look bucket bag or a leather-look crossbody bag, the method is different, and our guide on how to clean a handbag walks through it. Browse more bags and shoes once your boots are back on form.
What not to do with suede
A short list of habits that ruin more suede than mud ever will:
| Tempting | Why not | Do this instead |
|---|---|---|
| Scrubbing a mark hard | Crushes and tears the nap | Light strokes, repeated |
| Soaking with water | Leaves tide lines and stiffness | Dampen evenly, blot, dry slowly |
| Drying on a radiator | Hardens and shrinks the surface | Room temperature, paper inside |
| Ordinary shoe polish or cream | Flattens and darkens the nap | Brush, eraser, protector spray |
| Washing machine | Colour loss, shape loss | Hand cleaning only, unless the label says otherwise |
| Brushing while wet | Pushes the dirt deeper | Wait until fully dry |
If a mark is still there after two gentle attempts, stop. A good shoe repairer has seen far worse, and a favourite pair is worth the trip.
Look after them like this and suede boots age the way you'd want them to: soft, a little lived-in, and still the first pair you reach for when the weather turns. A large hobo bag with a detachable crossbody strap over your shoulder, a clean pair of boots, and you're out the door.
Next, from our bags
Something from a neighbouring rail, for the same moment.
Leather-Look Bucket Bag with Wide Patterned Strap
Leather-Look Crossbody Bag with Wide Strap
Large Hobo Bag with Detachable Crossbody Strap
Your questions, answered
Can I put suede boots in the washing machine?
No. Real suede does not survive a wash cycle: the colour can bleed, the nap goes hard and the shape can be lost for good. Some fabric suede-look boots say otherwise on the label, but most do not, so stick to hand cleaning unless the care label clearly allows it.
Does a suede protector spray make boots waterproof?
Not completely. A protector helps water and dirt bead on the surface for a while, which gives you time to blot them away. It wears off with use, so most people reapply it every few weeks in wet months. Always test it on a small area first.
Can I use a toothbrush instead of a suede brush?
A soft, clean, dry toothbrush works for light dust and small areas such as seams. It will not lift a flattened nap as well as a proper suede brush, and a stiff one can scratch. Keep it just for your shoes.
How often should I brush suede boots?
A quick brush after each wear in wet or dusty weather is ideal, and a lighter one now and then otherwise. Little and often keeps dirt from settling into the nap, which makes the big clean far less frequent.
What if a stain still will not shift?
Stop before you scrub harder. Repeated rubbing and stronger products are how suede gets ruined. For a favourite pair with a stubborn mark, a professional shoe repairer or cleaner is the safer choice.
Join the Journal
New guides and styling ideas by email, now and then. No clutter, and you can unsubscribe whenever you like.
